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2026 Everest Trends with Steve House, Alan Arnette, and Martin Zohr
In this Everest 2026 season recap, Steve House talks with Alan Arnette (Summit Coach) and Uphill Athlete coach Martin Zohr about a record-breaking year on the mountain: roughly 1,008 South Col summits (up from 891 in 2019), nearly 500 Nepal permits issued, nine straight days of delays from a massive leaning serac in the Khumbu Icefall, and a brief government ban on drone use that was reversed within days. They cover five climbing deaths (well below historical averages), the shift toward "flash" expeditions using higher-flow supplemental oxygen and pre-acclimatization on trekking peaks instead of traditional rotations, the stalled 7,000-meter prerequisite bill in Nepal's parliament, drones and helicopters replacing some Sherpa load-carrying, the unclear status of xenon use by climbers, Bartek Ziemkiewicz's no-oxygen ski descents of both Everest and Lhotse, and Nepal's roughly $8.5 million in permit revenue that largely bypasses local communities. The conversation closes with training advice — emphasizing a year or more of structured aerobic-first preparation, VAM tracking, and a mountaineering apprenticeship through progressively higher peaks — plus predictions for the 2027 season, including possible Tibet-side reopening.
Voice of the Mountains: Shift Your Understanding with Lydia Bradey (Replay)
Voice of the Mountains revisits one of its most memorable conversations (originally recorded in 2024, with a new intro from Steve House): Lydia Bradey, the New Zealand alpinist who in 1988 became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and who would go on to guide six successful Everest summits, more than any other woman in history. We're re-releasing this episode because the conversation was simply too good not to share again. Their discussion centers on a single, deceptively simple distinction: the difference between doing what people say you cannot do and doing what people say you should not do. Bradey traces her path from a self-described "wild child" raised by a single mother in New Zealand, through formative big-wall climbs in Yosemite and a near-fatal, avalanche-riddled epic in the Indian Himalaya, to the slopes of Everest itself, where she describes climbing "super altitude" not with dread but with pure curiosity. She and House dig into the bitter aftermath of her ascent — when senior male climbers on her own expedition publicly called her a liar, and half her teammates died descending the mountain — and how she navigated the threat of a ten-year climbing ban while quietly building a new life and career. Throughout, Bradey returns to themes of curiosity over fear, rejecting blame culture in favor of personal agency, and the idea that mastery of small, unglamorous tasks — sharp crampons, melted snow, a well-organized tent — is what earns a climber the right to take real risks. Asked how she wants to be remembered, her answer is unexpectedly modest: not for the summits, but simply as good company.
The Evolution of Testing: Continuous AeT
Steve House and Will Zittlau pull back the curtain on Continuous Aerobic Threshold, a new feature inside Uphill Athlete's Training Groups dashboard that automatically calculates an athlete's AeT each week using a four-week moving average of their training data — no field test required. Steve explains the core problem: athletes can do the work consistently and still be uncertain whether they trained at the right intensity, because a missed AeT quietly shifts aerobic sessions into glycolytic territory and derails the adaptation they were after. To validate the algorithm, Steve blind-scored 65 athlete files by hand and found the tool lands within an average of 0.1 beats of his coaching judgment — though that average masks a wider spread, with 62% of athletes falling within five beats and outliers as far as 17 beats off, a gap the team attributes largely to data quality. The episode is candid about where the tool still falls short and what they're doing to close it: improving filtering (wrist-based HR and mountain bike data are particularly noisy), building data-hygiene habits in the community, and targeting 99% of athletes within five beats of coach-level accuracy by year's end.And join us Tuesday, June 30thYouTube Livestream: Continuous Aerobic Threshold Monitoring and Training ZonesJoin Steve House and Will Zittlau for a live walkthrough of the Uphill Athlete Training Dashboard that is available to our Training Groups Athletes. Learn about continuous heart rate monitoring and how you can set your training zones with confidence. If you've ever wondered whether your training zones are right, this is a discussion you won't want to miss. REGISTER >>
Building the Aerobic Engine with Dr. Øyvind Sandbakk
Steve House welcomes Dr. Øivind Sandbakk, professor at the Norwegian School of Sports Sciences and director of the School for Elite Sports, for a deep dive into the science underlying Norwegian endurance dominance. Sandbakk traces his path from competitive cross-country skier to national-team coach to researcher, explaining that Norway's success stems less from any single training method and more from three decades of shared terminology, systematic data collection, and cross-sport knowledge exchange. He walks through how training intensity distribution is not universal but must be derived from each sport's specific demands — the metabolic fluctuations of skiing, the mechanical load constraints of running, the discipline-specific quirks of swimming and speed skating — and why blindly exporting any one "Norwegian model" misses the point entirely.The conversation then turns to the practical architecture of elite endurance development: high volumes of low-intensity work as the aerobic foundation, two to three quality sessions per week, and careful load-recovery management where the goal is optimizing adaptation signals rather than executing a plan for its own sake. Sandbakk and House find common ground on the art of coaching — the calibrated gut feeling built from lab data, training diary patterns, and honest athlete communication — and explore muscular endurance, aerobic threshold identification, and the long arc of athletic development, noting that most athletes haven't reached their aerobic ceiling until their early thirties. Sandbakk closes by previewing his current focus on young athlete development, arguing that building complete humans — psychologically resilient, multi-sport, injury-resistant — is the prerequisite for producing world champions.
Voice of the Mountains: My Axe May Be Your Paintbrush with Jimmy Chin (Replay)
(Originally published November 2024, now with new intro from Steve House) Most of us will never reach the pinnacle of our most passionate pursuit, no matter how driven we are. Through dedication, creativity and ingenuity, our guest today has reached the pinnacle of three of his passions. Beginning with a unique journey to discover climbing and skiing, then the discovery of an interest in photography, which finally led to becoming a premiere feature and documentary filmmaker, Jimmy Chin has forged his path with resilience, empathy, and a desire to tell important stories. Jimmy’s accolades and accomplishments speak volumes about a climber and artist who has pushed boundaries and silenced doubters. But it has always been the manner with which Jimmy has achieved that is most impressive. Steve and Jimmy discuss the evolution of his career and the catalyst for picking up a camera in the pursuit of climbing. They dive into the moral qualms Jimmy had shooting Free Solo and how and why he decided to create the award-winning documentary.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at coach@uphillathlete.com
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